So, what exactly is ‘organic’ cotton?

Here is the definition according to the Organic Trade Association:

“Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. Organic systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilizers, and build biologically diverse agriculture…Organic cotton is grown without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.”

“So,” you may be asking, “isn’t this how most cotton is grown?” Nooooooooooooooo…Far from it. Cotton that isn’t grown organically is called ‘conventional’ cotton. Here are some things to think about:

Conventional cotton is considered one of the most chemically dependent crops on the planet. It accounts for less than 3% of the world’s arable farming, but it uses approximately 25% of the world’s insecticides and more than 10% of the pesticides.

The total area of land dedicated to cotton farming has remained pretty much the same for the last 80 years. However, crop yields have tripled over this period due in large part to the introduction of large quantities of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. 

The industrial revolution in farming dates back to the end of World War II and the U.S. governement’s effort to convert wartime infrastructure to peacetime facilities.   Production of ammonium nitrate at the massive munitions plant at Muscle Shoals, Alabama -- which during the war was used as the principal ingredient for making explosives -- was converted into nitrogen-based chemical fertilizers. Similarly, poisonous gases developed for the war were re-engineered into pesticides.

Before they are even planted, conventional cotton seeds are typically treated with chemical fungicides and pesticides. GMO (genetically modified organism) cotton accounts for approximately 80% of the cotton planted in the United States and 20% of cotton crops worldwide. These GMO seeds are bio-engineered to improve crop yields and resist pests, but there is much debate as to their efficacy. Organic farming prohibits the use of GMO seeds.

A number of the chemical pesticides used on cotton in the United States are carcinogenic. The Environmental Protection Agency classifies the herbicide diuron as a ‘known/likely’ carcinogen, and it classifies nine other cotton pesticides as ‘Group C – Possible Human Carcinogens’.

The chemicals used kill not only the ‘bad’ insects, but they also kill the beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps. Without the presence of the beneficial insects, the ‘bad’ insects become even more destructive. The problem is compounded by chemical resistance. It is estimated that over 500 species of insects, 180 weeds and 150 fungi have developed resistance to the chemicals used to kill them. This requires larger quantities of stronger, more expensive chemicals to be applied to the crops. Farmers become stuck on what is referred to as the ‘pesticide treadmill’. 

Pesticides and synthetic fertilizers routinely contaminate groundwater, surface water, local streams, rivers, and public drinking water supplies. Fish, birds, and wildlife are also affected by the movement of these chemicals through the ecosystem.

Here’s the part that alarms me as a mom:

Cotton fiber accounts for only about 40% of the cotton harvest. The remaining 60% is composed of cottonseed and gin trash (leaves, fibers and twigs). Much of the cottonseed is pressed into oil, which is used by many brand names of processed cookies, crackers, chips, salad dressings, and snack foods (check your pantry…it’s in EVERYTHING!). The bulk of the remaining cottonseed (which is a high source of protein) and gin trash is used as feed for dairy cows and poultry. With conventionally grown cotton, the pesticide residue from the cottonseed concentrates in the fatty tissues of these animals and end up in our meat and dairy products. It is estimated that the average non-organic dairy cow in the U.S. consumes eight pounds of cottonseed every day. I no longer grimace at the price of organic milk.

Organic cotton represents only about .1% of global cotton production. In order to be labeled “organic” the cotton must be certified by a third party.

India is the largest producer of organic cotton, accounting for about half of the world’s production. Other top producers include Syria, Turkey, China, Tanzania, the United States (about 2% of world production), Uganda, Peru, Egypt and Burkina Faso.

Instead of using chemicals, organic farmers rely on biologically based growing systems to raise crops. The process starts with healthy soil. Organic cotton farmers use compost, efficient nutrient recycling, frequent crop rotation, and cover crops to keep soil healthy and productive.

To control pests, organic farmers have a number of tools at their disposal, such as the introduction of beneficial predator insects, crop rotations, intercropping (planting several crops together), and biological pesticides such as neem oil. For example, in Tanzania, organic cotton farmers plant sunflowers to attract beneficial ants that eat the larvae of the bollworm. In California, organic farmers plant habitat strips of vegetation such as alfalfa near their fields as a refuge for beneficial insects.

It’s a lot to think about, and this is only the tip of the iceberg. 

As we did our research before starting I EXCLAIM!, the organic option quickly became an important consideration. We’ve come to believe in the organic movement.  We want to do everything we can to support it by using as much organic cotton as possible in our line of products. If our name is on it, you can be assured that we have worked hard to make it an Earth-friendly product that you can enjoy with a clear conscience.

In the meantime, here are the sources we used for our information: